Here are info pages on dogs & guns into Canada. you can download and print the gun form and fill it out her before you leave. Makes it a lot easier at the border, as you need serial number, barrel length, etc.
PETS
Domestic or pet dogs may enter Canada if accompanied by an original valid rabies vaccination certificate, which is issued by a licensed veterinarian(2), in either English or French and which clearly identifies the dogs and states that they are currently vaccinated against rabies. This certificate should identify the animal as in breed, colour, weight, etc ., and indicate the name of the licensed rabies vaccine used (trade name), including serial number and duration of validity (up to three years). Please note that if the duration of validity is not indicated on the certificate, the vaccine will be considered to be valid for one year.
There is no waiting period imposed between the time the animal is vaccinated for rabies and the time the animal is imported into Canada.
GUNS
You can declare your firearms in writing, in triplicate, using the Non-Resident Firearm Declaration (form CAFC 909).
If you are bringing more than three firearms, attach a Non-Resident Firearm Declaration Continuation Sheet (form CAFC 910).
Please fill out the declaration form ahead of time to save time at the point of entry. However, wait until you arrive at the point of entry to sign the form because a customs officer must witness your signature.
Once the customs officer has confirmed your declaration, it will have the same effect as a licence for you and a temporary registration certificate for all the firearms you bring to Canada. It is valid for 60 days. You can renew your declaration at no additional fee, if you renew it before it expires, by contacting the CFO of the province or territory where you are staying. To renew it, call 1 800 731-4000.
A confirmed declaration costs a flat fee of $25, regardless of the number of firearms listed on it. It is only valid for the person who signs it and for those firearms listed on the declaration. If you come with others who will be using firearms in Canada, you will each need to meet these requirements.
Friday, September 14, 2007
Monday, September 10, 2007
A Typical 3 Day Hunt (According to Our Guides at Sports Afield Hunt Club)
A typical three day hunt:
You should arrive at the Sports Afield Duck Club late afternoon on either the Sunday or Wednesday prior to your hunt. We need time do housekeeping and prepare the lodge for your arrival so 4:00 PM is a suggestion. The Lodge is located on the left off the main road coming into St. Ambroise.
Dinner is at 7:00 so you will have time to get settled in your rooms, meet the staff, and get your hunting licenses filled out. Social hour (or two) runs concurrent with these activities. There is a general store in town with a limited selection of groceries and beverages (beer, liquor, soda) available. You are allowed 1 litre of liquor or 1 case of beer coming into Canada. We have a sporting clays/trap range if you need to fine tune your shooting. 12 gauge trap loads are available at the lodge. Let us know if you need 20’s and we will have some.
Wake-up is around 4:30 AM followed by coffee and light breakfast. Your guide will have a thermos with your choice of coffee or hot soup along with a lunch to take to the marsh.
Guides will arrive around 6:00 depending on travel time to your hunting area. Normally you will leave the lodge by truck to the edge of the marsh where you will ride ATV, or a have a short walk to the blind or boats. The guides each hunt multiple areas where they locate their boats. Each day’s hunt is dependent on the forecast of wind speed and direction. Some days you may drive to your blind (called hide in Canadian), other days you may take a boat ride. Always in the dark so it’s good to carry a small flash light.
When you arrive at your site for the hunt your guide will set decoys. Guides do appreciate assistance putting out decoys and you’re welcome to help (not mandatory, but some hunters enjoy it). From there it’s waiting for shooting time. Guides are all experienced callers and can usually identify species in flight to avoid violations. Limits are eight ducks per hunter (only two can be canvasbacks/redheads) and five Canada geese. We do shoot geese in the marsh so be prepared. Guides don’t shoot, but they may need help in retrieving wounded birds. Some have dogs. Some retrieve with boats and wounded bird chases by boat do happen. Morning hunts vary in length till you are limited or obvious it’s not going to happen. Guides will advise. Normally everyone is back at the lodge for a lunch which is served till 2:00. Late arrivals go hungry.
Afternoons are on your own. We can arrange field hunts for sharp-tail, trips to town, or DU Canada Station.
Dinner is at 7:00. Menu is normally, roast chicken, walleye, and roast duck in rotation.
You should arrive at the Sports Afield Duck Club late afternoon on either the Sunday or Wednesday prior to your hunt. We need time do housekeeping and prepare the lodge for your arrival so 4:00 PM is a suggestion. The Lodge is located on the left off the main road coming into St. Ambroise.
Dinner is at 7:00 so you will have time to get settled in your rooms, meet the staff, and get your hunting licenses filled out. Social hour (or two) runs concurrent with these activities. There is a general store in town with a limited selection of groceries and beverages (beer, liquor, soda) available. You are allowed 1 litre of liquor or 1 case of beer coming into Canada. We have a sporting clays/trap range if you need to fine tune your shooting. 12 gauge trap loads are available at the lodge. Let us know if you need 20’s and we will have some.
Wake-up is around 4:30 AM followed by coffee and light breakfast. Your guide will have a thermos with your choice of coffee or hot soup along with a lunch to take to the marsh.
Guides will arrive around 6:00 depending on travel time to your hunting area. Normally you will leave the lodge by truck to the edge of the marsh where you will ride ATV, or a have a short walk to the blind or boats. The guides each hunt multiple areas where they locate their boats. Each day’s hunt is dependent on the forecast of wind speed and direction. Some days you may drive to your blind (called hide in Canadian), other days you may take a boat ride. Always in the dark so it’s good to carry a small flash light.
When you arrive at your site for the hunt your guide will set decoys. Guides do appreciate assistance putting out decoys and you’re welcome to help (not mandatory, but some hunters enjoy it). From there it’s waiting for shooting time. Guides are all experienced callers and can usually identify species in flight to avoid violations. Limits are eight ducks per hunter (only two can be canvasbacks/redheads) and five Canada geese. We do shoot geese in the marsh so be prepared. Guides don’t shoot, but they may need help in retrieving wounded birds. Some have dogs. Some retrieve with boats and wounded bird chases by boat do happen. Morning hunts vary in length till you are limited or obvious it’s not going to happen. Guides will advise. Normally everyone is back at the lodge for a lunch which is served till 2:00. Late arrivals go hungry.
Afternoons are on your own. We can arrange field hunts for sharp-tail, trips to town, or DU Canada Station.
Dinner is at 7:00. Menu is normally, roast chicken, walleye, and roast duck in rotation.
Steve's Packing List
HUNTER/FISHERMAN EQUIPMENT LIST
CLOTHING
Hunting coat, bibs
Rain gear, rain hat
Light and heavy long johns
Lined jeans or wool pants
Vest
Heavy flannel/wool shirt
Lightweight shirt – turtleneck, if desired
t-shirts/underwear
trapper or other waterproof gloves
warm gloves/shooting mittens
leather shooting gloves
Leather walking boots, camp shoes
Rubber boots, hip boots, waders
Walking socks, warm socks, camp socks
Warm hat, cap
PERSONAL ACCESSORIES
Binoculars/spotting scope
GPS & Maps –
Frame backpack for heavy loads
Game carrier, duck calls
Gun cleaning kit, Gun registration
Guns, shells, gun cases, gun sling
Personal water bottle for everyone
Cellphone booster/Canada service
Advil, Excedrin, Aspirin
Vitamins, other medication
Personal toiletries, contact lens stuff
Glasses, sunglasses, fishing glasses
Flashlight, headlamp
VEHICLE
Coolers – for game, field, trip snacks
Game carrier
Thermos, lunch kit
Pack trailer wheels, check spare tire
Check trailer hook-up & lights
Passport, ID, Birth certificate
Hunting license
DOGS
Field snacks
Neoprene vest fitted to dog
Enough food for your dog
Pre-condition dogs for heavy swimming
Precondition for carrying large birds(geese)
Teach dog to dive
Enteric coated halfprin for dogs
First aid kit
Vet clearance for Canada
GENERAL TIPS
Passion is why we’re here
Let’s have FUN
Pre-plan trip so items do not double up. We only need so many decoys.
Check around vehicle/boat/blind before leaving field
One person is hunt master or guide for each group each day-responsible for scouting and strategy
PREP FOR 2007
Sillosock rack
Remove rear seat from van
Bird box for top of trailer
Rack for back of trailer Sillosocks fit?
Covers for ground blinds
Laptop GPS system
Personal size portions. Bring what you need for you, your dog and assume everyone else will do the same
Personal Rubbermaid bins would allow stacking and limit clothing. Can size to trip
Schedule a game feed(Friday?) for war stories
Thoroughly analyze decoy placement before in the field to minimize emotional discussions and time delays
Fishing: look for moving water
Need heavy snaps & leaders
Good long needle-nosed pliers
Landing net
Tackle boxes
Rods with reels to match
New line for each reel
Sharpen/replace old hooks on lures
Lake maps/GPS coordinates
Check boat batteries
Anchor & rope
Tie downs
Check oars, paddles, life jackets
CLOTHING
Hunting coat, bibs
Rain gear, rain hat
Light and heavy long johns
Lined jeans or wool pants
Vest
Heavy flannel/wool shirt
Lightweight shirt – turtleneck, if desired
t-shirts/underwear
trapper or other waterproof gloves
warm gloves/shooting mittens
leather shooting gloves
Leather walking boots, camp shoes
Rubber boots, hip boots, waders
Walking socks, warm socks, camp socks
Warm hat, cap
PERSONAL ACCESSORIES
Binoculars/spotting scope
GPS & Maps –
Frame backpack for heavy loads
Game carrier, duck calls
Gun cleaning kit, Gun registration
Guns, shells, gun cases, gun sling
Personal water bottle for everyone
Cellphone booster/Canada service
Advil, Excedrin, Aspirin
Vitamins, other medication
Personal toiletries, contact lens stuff
Glasses, sunglasses, fishing glasses
Flashlight, headlamp
VEHICLE
Coolers – for game, field, trip snacks
Game carrier
Thermos, lunch kit
Pack trailer wheels, check spare tire
Check trailer hook-up & lights
Passport, ID, Birth certificate
Hunting license
DOGS
Field snacks
Neoprene vest fitted to dog
Enough food for your dog
Pre-condition dogs for heavy swimming
Precondition for carrying large birds(geese)
Teach dog to dive
Enteric coated halfprin for dogs
First aid kit
Vet clearance for Canada
GENERAL TIPS
Passion is why we’re here
Let’s have FUN
Pre-plan trip so items do not double up. We only need so many decoys.
Check around vehicle/boat/blind before leaving field
One person is hunt master or guide for each group each day-responsible for scouting and strategy
PREP FOR 2007
Sillosock rack
Remove rear seat from van
Bird box for top of trailer
Rack for back of trailer Sillosocks fit?
Covers for ground blinds
Laptop GPS system
Personal size portions. Bring what you need for you, your dog and assume everyone else will do the same
Personal Rubbermaid bins would allow stacking and limit clothing. Can size to trip
Schedule a game feed(Friday?) for war stories
Thoroughly analyze decoy placement before in the field to minimize emotional discussions and time delays
Fishing: look for moving water
Need heavy snaps & leaders
Good long needle-nosed pliers
Landing net
Tackle boxes
Rods with reels to match
New line for each reel
Sharpen/replace old hooks on lures
Lake maps/GPS coordinates
Check boat batteries
Anchor & rope
Tie downs
Check oars, paddles, life jackets
Saturday, September 8, 2007
The Delta Marsh Bird Observatory
This is a narrow strip of woods growing on the sand dunes that separate lake Manitoba on the left from the Delta Marsh on the right (south). This strip of land creates a natural corridor that funnels birds as they migrate every spring and fall. In fact the Delta Marsh Bird Observatory is located on this strip. The Observatory's website is http://www.dmbo.org/
This is a very special place!
Friday, September 7, 2007
More Shooting Tips
10 Shooting Tips for Waterfowl
by Wade Bourne
Making a good shot is one of the great joys in waterfowl hunting. Indeed, shooting is the pinnacle of this sport. Everything else - scouting, building blinds, setting decoys, calling, everything – is a lead-up to that moment when you shoulder your gun and fire. Making a clean kill gives you an immediate sense of pride in a job well done.
So, how do you become a good shot? How can you convert misses into hits? What can you do to improve your accuracy and hold your own with more seasoned shooters in the blind or pit?
Good shooting is a mix of coordination, concentration and confidence. Good shooting is more instinctive than mechanical. It’s a skill that is honed through adept coaching and lots of practice, similar to other athletic endeavors.
Here’s a list of 10 tips for becoming a better shot on ducks and geese. Put these suggestions into practice, and you’ll shoot better and enjoy your hunting more.
Tip No. 1: Make sure your shotgun fits.
Tip No. 2: Practice shooting in the pre-season.
Tip No. 3: Don't get in a hurry.
Tip No. 4: Shoot one bird at a time.
Tip No. 5: Shoot the trailing bird in a flight.
Tip No. 6: Rely on instinct to calculate lead.
Tip No. 7: Don't stop swinging.
Tip No. 8: On long passing shots, lead more than you think you need to.
Tip No. 9: When waterfowl are coming head-on, blot them out and fire.
Tip No. 10: Attend a shooting school.
Tip No. 1: Make sure your shotgun fits. A shotgun should flow naturally and smoothly to the shoulder, cheek to stock and master eye looking straight down the barrel. When a shotgun fits, the transition to this shooting position is second nature. The barrel automatically becomes an extension of the shooter’s line of sight.
Take your shotgun to a gunsmith, and let him check its fit against your physique. If it’s a misfit, he can make stock adjustments, so it will rise and point naturally.
Tip No. 2: Practice shooting in the pre-season. Too many duck and goose hunters leave their shotguns in their gun safes until opening day. Then they wonder why they can’t hit anything. The easy answer is, they’re out of sync.
This problem is easily corrected with some pre-season shooting practice. A dove field is one of the best possible training grounds for waterfowl hunters. Doves present the same relative angles and distances as ducks and geese, and because of the liberal bag limit on doves, shooters get to practice these shots repeatedly.
Shooting sporting clays is another practice option. Contact a sporting clays manager, and ask if you can come and choose certain stations to shoot over and over. Select those stations that are most relevant to waterfowl hunting: in-coming ducks, overhead geese, springing teal, etc. Stay on a station until you’ve mastered it, then move on to the next. Such repetition locks in your mind the right sight picture for breaking targets consistently. This transfers to your waterfowl hunting.
Tip No. 3: Don’t get in a hurry. A key reason for missing ducks and geese is shooting too fast. Some hunters think they have to shoot quickly before the birds flare out of range. The truth is, when hunters wait that extra second or two when waterfowl are coming in, then rise up to shoot, there’s plenty of time to take three deliberate, well-spaced shots before the birds get too far away. Consciously slow your pace. Don’t be jerky when mounting your shotgun. Don’t rush your shots. Try not to compete with your hunting partners. Just take your time, and focus solely on hitting your target.
Tip No. 4: Shoot one bird at a time. When a flight of ducks comes into the decoys, many hunters shoot . . . at the flight! They don’t single out one bird, and concentrate strictly on it. An incoming flight of ducks is 95 percent air. This is why you need to lock in on one bird, and stay with it until it drops. Don’t “flock shoot.” Don’t switch targets. Don’t let the excitement of the moment shatter your focus.
Tip No. 5: Shoot the trailing bird in a flight. Take the last or highest bird in an incoming fight. When ducks or geese are about to land, most hunters focus on the closest, lowest, easiest shot, and two or more hunters wind up shooting at the same bird. Instead, take a trailer with the first shot. Then your shotgun will be in the right plane to shoot flaring birds on the second and third shots. Also, you’ll have the satisfaction of knowing you downed birds that no other hunters were shooting.
Tip No. 6: Rely on instinct to calculate lead. There is no mechanical system for figuring and holding proper leads. It’s all instinct. When tracking a bird, focus on the front of the target (look for the bird’s eye), swing the gun, and allow your mental computer to calculate the right amount of lead. It’s like throwing a rock through a rolling tire. You don’t think about lead. You just look at the tire, and throw the rock, and your internal processor automatically determines how far to lead it. It’s the same with shooting waterfowl.
Tip No. 7: Don’t stop swinging. Stopping the swing with the shotgun is one of the most common reasons for missing ducks and geese. You must follow through with your shot! Try stopping your club when hitting golf ball, and see what happens. This wrecks your timing and coordination. The same thing happens when you stop swinging your shotgun. Keep the barrel moving after firing. Having good follow-through is the proper conclusion to any athletic effort, be it shooting at a duck, swinging a golf club or throwing a ball.
Tip No. 8: On long passing shots, lead more than you think you need to. On long passing shots, the main reason for missing is shooting behind the bird. Force yourself to hold more lead than you think you need, and again, keep the barrel moving.
Practice long crossing shots on a skeet range. Stand 10 yards behind station No. 4 – the one in the middle – and fire repetitive shots at targets crossing at 90 degrees. This allows you to experiment and learn how much lead is needed at this distance and target speed. And it builds confidence in your ability to make this difficult shot.
Tip No. 9: When waterfowl are coming head-on, blot them out and fire. When a bird is coming head-on and level, wait until it’s in good killing range, then mount the shotgun so the barrel is below the target, and swing up and through the bird. When the front of the barrel blots out the target, pull the trigger. If a bird is coming head-on and descending (dropping into decoys), hold slightly beneath the bird so your shot column intercepts its glide path.
Tip No. 10: Attend a shooting school. This is perhaps the best single tip for becoming a better shot. Several shooting schools are available around the country. At a shooting school, a certified shotgun instructor will provide one-on-one tutoring. These instructors are trained to analyze shooting form, spot problems and correct them. Attending such a school is not cheap, but shooters can expect immediate results from their investment.
Here’s the bottom line on becoming a good shot on ducks and geese: how well you shoot depends on how much effort you put into it. Sure, talent plays a role, but dedication and effort can largely make up for a lack of natural aptitude. Dedicate yourself to improving, then put the 10 tips above into practice. Your shooting average will go up, and the birds will come down.
by Wade Bourne
Making a good shot is one of the great joys in waterfowl hunting. Indeed, shooting is the pinnacle of this sport. Everything else - scouting, building blinds, setting decoys, calling, everything – is a lead-up to that moment when you shoulder your gun and fire. Making a clean kill gives you an immediate sense of pride in a job well done.
So, how do you become a good shot? How can you convert misses into hits? What can you do to improve your accuracy and hold your own with more seasoned shooters in the blind or pit?
Good shooting is a mix of coordination, concentration and confidence. Good shooting is more instinctive than mechanical. It’s a skill that is honed through adept coaching and lots of practice, similar to other athletic endeavors.
Here’s a list of 10 tips for becoming a better shot on ducks and geese. Put these suggestions into practice, and you’ll shoot better and enjoy your hunting more.
Tip No. 1: Make sure your shotgun fits.
Tip No. 2: Practice shooting in the pre-season.
Tip No. 3: Don't get in a hurry.
Tip No. 4: Shoot one bird at a time.
Tip No. 5: Shoot the trailing bird in a flight.
Tip No. 6: Rely on instinct to calculate lead.
Tip No. 7: Don't stop swinging.
Tip No. 8: On long passing shots, lead more than you think you need to.
Tip No. 9: When waterfowl are coming head-on, blot them out and fire.
Tip No. 10: Attend a shooting school.
Tip No. 1: Make sure your shotgun fits. A shotgun should flow naturally and smoothly to the shoulder, cheek to stock and master eye looking straight down the barrel. When a shotgun fits, the transition to this shooting position is second nature. The barrel automatically becomes an extension of the shooter’s line of sight.
Take your shotgun to a gunsmith, and let him check its fit against your physique. If it’s a misfit, he can make stock adjustments, so it will rise and point naturally.
Tip No. 2: Practice shooting in the pre-season. Too many duck and goose hunters leave their shotguns in their gun safes until opening day. Then they wonder why they can’t hit anything. The easy answer is, they’re out of sync.
This problem is easily corrected with some pre-season shooting practice. A dove field is one of the best possible training grounds for waterfowl hunters. Doves present the same relative angles and distances as ducks and geese, and because of the liberal bag limit on doves, shooters get to practice these shots repeatedly.
Shooting sporting clays is another practice option. Contact a sporting clays manager, and ask if you can come and choose certain stations to shoot over and over. Select those stations that are most relevant to waterfowl hunting: in-coming ducks, overhead geese, springing teal, etc. Stay on a station until you’ve mastered it, then move on to the next. Such repetition locks in your mind the right sight picture for breaking targets consistently. This transfers to your waterfowl hunting.
Tip No. 3: Don’t get in a hurry. A key reason for missing ducks and geese is shooting too fast. Some hunters think they have to shoot quickly before the birds flare out of range. The truth is, when hunters wait that extra second or two when waterfowl are coming in, then rise up to shoot, there’s plenty of time to take three deliberate, well-spaced shots before the birds get too far away. Consciously slow your pace. Don’t be jerky when mounting your shotgun. Don’t rush your shots. Try not to compete with your hunting partners. Just take your time, and focus solely on hitting your target.
Tip No. 4: Shoot one bird at a time. When a flight of ducks comes into the decoys, many hunters shoot . . . at the flight! They don’t single out one bird, and concentrate strictly on it. An incoming flight of ducks is 95 percent air. This is why you need to lock in on one bird, and stay with it until it drops. Don’t “flock shoot.” Don’t switch targets. Don’t let the excitement of the moment shatter your focus.
Tip No. 5: Shoot the trailing bird in a flight. Take the last or highest bird in an incoming fight. When ducks or geese are about to land, most hunters focus on the closest, lowest, easiest shot, and two or more hunters wind up shooting at the same bird. Instead, take a trailer with the first shot. Then your shotgun will be in the right plane to shoot flaring birds on the second and third shots. Also, you’ll have the satisfaction of knowing you downed birds that no other hunters were shooting.
Tip No. 6: Rely on instinct to calculate lead. There is no mechanical system for figuring and holding proper leads. It’s all instinct. When tracking a bird, focus on the front of the target (look for the bird’s eye), swing the gun, and allow your mental computer to calculate the right amount of lead. It’s like throwing a rock through a rolling tire. You don’t think about lead. You just look at the tire, and throw the rock, and your internal processor automatically determines how far to lead it. It’s the same with shooting waterfowl.
Tip No. 7: Don’t stop swinging. Stopping the swing with the shotgun is one of the most common reasons for missing ducks and geese. You must follow through with your shot! Try stopping your club when hitting golf ball, and see what happens. This wrecks your timing and coordination. The same thing happens when you stop swinging your shotgun. Keep the barrel moving after firing. Having good follow-through is the proper conclusion to any athletic effort, be it shooting at a duck, swinging a golf club or throwing a ball.
Tip No. 8: On long passing shots, lead more than you think you need to. On long passing shots, the main reason for missing is shooting behind the bird. Force yourself to hold more lead than you think you need, and again, keep the barrel moving.
Practice long crossing shots on a skeet range. Stand 10 yards behind station No. 4 – the one in the middle – and fire repetitive shots at targets crossing at 90 degrees. This allows you to experiment and learn how much lead is needed at this distance and target speed. And it builds confidence in your ability to make this difficult shot.
Tip No. 9: When waterfowl are coming head-on, blot them out and fire. When a bird is coming head-on and level, wait until it’s in good killing range, then mount the shotgun so the barrel is below the target, and swing up and through the bird. When the front of the barrel blots out the target, pull the trigger. If a bird is coming head-on and descending (dropping into decoys), hold slightly beneath the bird so your shot column intercepts its glide path.
Tip No. 10: Attend a shooting school. This is perhaps the best single tip for becoming a better shot. Several shooting schools are available around the country. At a shooting school, a certified shotgun instructor will provide one-on-one tutoring. These instructors are trained to analyze shooting form, spot problems and correct them. Attending such a school is not cheap, but shooters can expect immediate results from their investment.
Here’s the bottom line on becoming a good shot on ducks and geese: how well you shoot depends on how much effort you put into it. Sure, talent plays a role, but dedication and effort can largely make up for a lack of natural aptitude. Dedicate yourself to improving, then put the 10 tips above into practice. Your shooting average will go up, and the birds will come down.
Shooting Tips
Ten Tips To Better Wing & Clay Shooting
by Bob KnopfNational Wing & Clay Shooting School
All shotgun shooters want to shoot better. But for many shooters, a handful of shooting mistakes create frustration in the field or on the range. Instructors at the National Wing & Clay Shooting School help shooters at all skill levels gain proficiency by eliminating mistakes and by helping each shooter trust their instincts.
Consider these 10 shooting tips to develop your maximum shotgun shooting potential.
Tip #1 - In all shooting, practice safety first. Always wear hearing and eye protection. Keep your gun unloaded and the action visibly open until you're ready to shoot. Once you are finished shooting, make sure the gun is once again empty and the action is open. Always keep the gun's muzzle pointed down range. Never point a gun muzzle backward over your shoulder.
Tip #2 - Practice swinging and mounting an unloaded gun to your face in front of a mirror. Make sure you stand erect. Do not lower your face to the gun or tilt your head. Lift the gun straight up using a short concise motion. Be sure to use both hands equally, as though they were connected by a steel rod. Mount the gun precisely from the same starting position each time. Always mount to the same place on your face each time. Mount the gun to the face not the shoulder. Do ten swing/mounts each day. (The best shots make this part of their daily routine.)
Tip #3 - When shooting (or practicing your swing/mounts), position your feet so that a line extending from your rear heel to your leading foot points to where you will break the target. Keep your stance relatively narrow. This position encourages a smooth swing and a good follow through.
Tip #4 - Learn to first swing the gun and then mount it. If we mount the gun as we swing to the target, the mount takes no time. Allow your pointing instincts to take over your swing. As your eyes become sharply focused on the target, finish the gun mount and shoot the instant the target is in sharp focus.
Tip #5 - When pointing your gun, focus on the target and not the gun barrel or bead. Point, don't aim. Aiming slows your swing and causes you to shoot behind. Since a shot string is 10-14' long, use it to your advantage by pointing slightly more in front of a target. If you miss crossing targets, you are probably shooting behind. Try to "miss" in front by doubling your lead, and if still missing, try doubling the lead again.
Tip #6 - Gun fit is important. Have your gun fitted so it shoots where you look. This test requires that you first have a consistent, well practiced gun mount. To test for gun fit, set up a pattern board at 16 yards. Fire several consecutive shots by mounting and shooting at a center dot without aiming, but by merely pointing at the target. If the highest pattern density is off center, take the target and your gun to a competent gun fitter for adjustment.
Tip #7 - When shooting simultaneous (true) pairs, decide ahead of time which target you will break. Generally, shoot the behind or lower target first, unless one target is quick to disappear behind cover or is decidedly more difficult. Shooting the lower target first allows gun recoil to bring you automatically to the upper target. Shooting the back target first allows your swing to continue smoothly to the front target.
Tip #8 - When you're experiencing a missing streak, change something. Change one of your postures. Double your lead. Or, give yourself less think time by moving your gun hold point and target view point closer to the break point. Pull the trigger the instant the gun is mounted to your face and the target is in focus.
Tip #9 - Use low recoil target loads for practice. Shotshells containing 7/8-1 oz shot are adequate for practice. The lessened amount of shot with more powder gives these shells high velocity, low recoil, and excellent pattern integrity. Many tournament shooters prefer these light loads even under tough tournament shooting conditions.
Tip #10 - Regular practice improves scores. However, when practice no longer improves your hitting ability, take a lesson from a certified NSCA instructor. A competent instructor can diagnose specific shooting problems and improve your proficiency. The dollars paid to a competent instructor are quickly returned in better scores and saved ammunition.
by Bob KnopfNational Wing & Clay Shooting School
All shotgun shooters want to shoot better. But for many shooters, a handful of shooting mistakes create frustration in the field or on the range. Instructors at the National Wing & Clay Shooting School help shooters at all skill levels gain proficiency by eliminating mistakes and by helping each shooter trust their instincts.
Consider these 10 shooting tips to develop your maximum shotgun shooting potential.
Tip #1 - In all shooting, practice safety first. Always wear hearing and eye protection. Keep your gun unloaded and the action visibly open until you're ready to shoot. Once you are finished shooting, make sure the gun is once again empty and the action is open. Always keep the gun's muzzle pointed down range. Never point a gun muzzle backward over your shoulder.
Tip #2 - Practice swinging and mounting an unloaded gun to your face in front of a mirror. Make sure you stand erect. Do not lower your face to the gun or tilt your head. Lift the gun straight up using a short concise motion. Be sure to use both hands equally, as though they were connected by a steel rod. Mount the gun precisely from the same starting position each time. Always mount to the same place on your face each time. Mount the gun to the face not the shoulder. Do ten swing/mounts each day. (The best shots make this part of their daily routine.)
Tip #3 - When shooting (or practicing your swing/mounts), position your feet so that a line extending from your rear heel to your leading foot points to where you will break the target. Keep your stance relatively narrow. This position encourages a smooth swing and a good follow through.
Tip #4 - Learn to first swing the gun and then mount it. If we mount the gun as we swing to the target, the mount takes no time. Allow your pointing instincts to take over your swing. As your eyes become sharply focused on the target, finish the gun mount and shoot the instant the target is in sharp focus.
Tip #5 - When pointing your gun, focus on the target and not the gun barrel or bead. Point, don't aim. Aiming slows your swing and causes you to shoot behind. Since a shot string is 10-14' long, use it to your advantage by pointing slightly more in front of a target. If you miss crossing targets, you are probably shooting behind. Try to "miss" in front by doubling your lead, and if still missing, try doubling the lead again.
Tip #6 - Gun fit is important. Have your gun fitted so it shoots where you look. This test requires that you first have a consistent, well practiced gun mount. To test for gun fit, set up a pattern board at 16 yards. Fire several consecutive shots by mounting and shooting at a center dot without aiming, but by merely pointing at the target. If the highest pattern density is off center, take the target and your gun to a competent gun fitter for adjustment.
Tip #7 - When shooting simultaneous (true) pairs, decide ahead of time which target you will break. Generally, shoot the behind or lower target first, unless one target is quick to disappear behind cover or is decidedly more difficult. Shooting the lower target first allows gun recoil to bring you automatically to the upper target. Shooting the back target first allows your swing to continue smoothly to the front target.
Tip #8 - When you're experiencing a missing streak, change something. Change one of your postures. Double your lead. Or, give yourself less think time by moving your gun hold point and target view point closer to the break point. Pull the trigger the instant the gun is mounted to your face and the target is in focus.
Tip #9 - Use low recoil target loads for practice. Shotshells containing 7/8-1 oz shot are adequate for practice. The lessened amount of shot with more powder gives these shells high velocity, low recoil, and excellent pattern integrity. Many tournament shooters prefer these light loads even under tough tournament shooting conditions.
Tip #10 - Regular practice improves scores. However, when practice no longer improves your hitting ability, take a lesson from a certified NSCA instructor. A competent instructor can diagnose specific shooting problems and improve your proficiency. The dollars paid to a competent instructor are quickly returned in better scores and saved ammunition.
The Delta Marsh
The top picture shows where the Delta Marsh is located just south of lame Manitoba.
Here is a pictue of the Delta Marsh. This is a "duck's eye view" from over lake Manitoba looking south.
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